Gorillas

The morning of our trek, the four of us arose bleary-eyed and exhausted. The motel was not at all conducive to sleeping (not worth going into the details). However, we were all energized by the prospect of tracking the gorillas in the rain forest. After a very rough one hour ride over unfinished mountain roads, we arrived at our destination. A young woman working in the British Embassy in Sudan joined our group. We were introduced to our guide who laid the ground rules for our trek:


• Stay close together.
• Put your pant legs into your socks to avoid being bitten by stinging red ants.
• Watch for nettles (prickery plants) while bushwhacking through the forest.
• Take plenty of water.
• When the trackers find the gorillas, do not move if they become aggressive.
• Do not look the gorillas in the eye.
• If the trek becomes too strenuous for anyone, a guide will be radioed to take the person back to base camp.
• No flash photos.
• Anyone with a cold, cough, or any potentially contagious disease must stay behind.

We were on our way by 8:30 AM and were pleased to see the sun peeking through the clouds. We hired a porter to carry our water, clothes as we shed them with the rising temps and our lunches. The guide was in front with the porters (2) pulling up the rear. Walking about 25 feet in front of the guide was another park official carrying a rifle. The semblance of an initial trail quickly disappeared, giving way to dense overgrown jungle with rope-like vines along the ground ready to snag and trip any non-vigilant trekker (We all succumbed to the vines at one point or another). The terrain became very steep and slippery from the moisture, forcing us to grab at any branch or outgrowth to help us with the ascent, deeper and deeper into the forest. We had to forge 3 streams, which ended up soaking everyone’s feet and lower pant legs.

As we continued, our guide kept in radio contact with the trackers who had left earlier in the morning in search of a gorilla troop. After 2 ½ hours of some of the most difficult hiking and climbing I have ever done, we met the trackers who informed us there was a troop of 20 gorillas ahead. We were told to leave our walking sticks and everything behind except our cameras, to keep our voices down and to follow the trackers and our guide. The trackers were armed with a machete and scythe to clear the way to the gorillas.

We came upon two silver backs (mature males), several teenagers, females and frolicking babies. The alpha sliver back was not to be seen. The teenage males became quite aggressive at times, making threatening noises while moving toward us. The trackers and guide held their ground and responded in kind, imitating the gorilla sounds. Thank heaven the standoff worked, as I had already turned and was ready to run for my life in spite of instructions to the contrary! Adult gorillas can weigh up to 420 lbs and the teenagers 200 plus.

The entire troop busied themselves munching on leaves with some of the larger apes devouring every leaf in site from a comfortable seated position on the ground. Some of the mothers and their babies sought higher places from which to feed. However, the branches eventually snapped under their weight, forcing them to swing to other branches until those too succumbed to the strain of supporting their diners. Eventually, we realized that the troop had encircled us, so we were able to view them from all sides. It was amazing to see their dexterity in plucking a single leaf or grabbing an entire handful. When some of the older ones were sated, they decided to take a snooze, allowing us to move a bit closer. They assumed very human like positions, lying on their sides and cradling their heads in their arms.

One silver back took umbrage at our invasion of their privacy and rose to full height, making frightening sounds and pounding on his chest. Our guide stood tall and pounded his chest in response. This caused the enormous male to retreat to another spot – thank heavens! I’m so glad the ape had eaten before this interaction!

I can’t imagine anyone disputing evolution when confronted by these creatures who so resemble us, or is it the other way around? To be so up close and personal was a truly amazing experience and one I hope others will be able to enjoy for many years to come. There are fewer than 400 wild gorillas in Uganda with slightly fewer in neighboring Rwanda and the Congo. They are an endangered species but are enjoying a slight increase in numbers over the past few years. The rather stiff fee one must pay to see them helps pay for their protection. In addition, denying access to anyone who appears to be sick, protects the apes from catching human viruses which could potentially wipe out an entire troop and more.

Trekkers are allotted one hour to remain with the troop, before heading back to base camp. Most of us got some good photos which we plan to share with each other. One person in our party had a very good telescopic lens, so I am eager to get some of her shots and eventually share them with you.

Our trip back was equally as treacherous as our hike in, as we got caught in an afternoon thunderstorm storm, which made our footing even more precarious. By the time we made it to base camp, we were drenched through and through – not to mention exhausted.

We had a small “graduation” ceremony for having successfully made the trek and seen the gorillas. We each received “diplomas” to a round of applause, and then headed back to our motel, eager for a nice hot shower. Unfortunately, the generator hadn’t been turned on, so we had to forgo showers and sponge off the mud and grit as best we could and wait until after dinner to shower and fall into bed. Needless to say, we all slept well that night!

Next entry…the ride back to Kampala and more…